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The second step is to build the elevator and horizontal stabilizer.

The elevators are shipped as two independent assemblies. It would be better to get both elevator and horizontal stabilizer, at the same time. If you build each item separately you will have a real headache on your hands. The reason for this is the alignment of the elevator and the horizontal stabilizer. I recommend you build the rear part of the elevator, less ribs etc, and the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer, as one assembly. This way the alignment of all six hinges is very easy to handle. More discussion below


The two beams are mirror images of each other. Each has two pieces of white pine 3/8 in by 7/8 inches by approximately 30 inches in length. You also have 12mm shaped plywood fillers. The beams should be pre soaked, held in place by the nails on a form and let dry. You do not want the plywood to get wet. After 24 hrs, you then assemble the runners to the plywood. The runners have a grove that fits the plywood rib assm. You have to insure that everything is square. You will find this part time consuming. Be sure to dry assemble until everything is square. The plywood has a slight taper to it. When finished the parts should be aligned to each other. Be sure that each fished bar faces each other with thin side of the assemblies facing each other. The wider part will each support the ribs and geodetic structures.



Ist part of elevator rib construction

The material used in this part of the assembly is the same as the rudder. But this time we will build the support formers as one assembly. AS in the rudder the support structure is built on a flat surf ice with wax paper over your prints. Use as many steel pins as required. The wood rib caps are never the same grain structure. So it would be wise to buy at least eight foot pieces and mill the center placement channels with a bench router. rough the entire material with sandpaper for good glue adherence.



Attach push rod assemblies.

The elevators are held together with two square 1 Inch steel tubing tapered and drilled as needed. The structure also has another steel tube that fits inside the elevator tubes and has an extend arm to fit the push rod from the stick. The push rod is 1 inch round hollow aluminium tubing. This critical weight item in the weight and balance. It was steel but the forces can be easily handled with aluminum. The rudder push bars are made the same way. It makes the rudder pedals more authentic. I did not like the idea of cable and pulleys.



A little about the balanced elevator.

This part of the original assembly was a night mare. But by building them as an assembly it was simple matter of just adding a .25 inch spacer block and sanding all parts together. I have added an electric trim tab on my spitfire. I used a linear actuator motor. It saves weight and the need for extra cables. You'll find when you get to the cockpit, you have little extra room for additions.





In this step you'll attach the two assemblies with the hinges.

For alignment purposes I removed the aluminum hinge pins and replaced them with a 30 inch piece of piano wire. Attach the hinges to the frames with the hardware provided. I used aircraft quality hardware with nylon lock nuts and washers. You might want to pre paint the hardware so you won't have dissemble the parts so many times. I used system three epoxy paint to paint the parts before the hinges were assembled. It;s much easier to do at this time.

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